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Stanage day tripin'

Written by Richard Apps

Tuesday, 12 September 2006

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Delightful cramped croner.

Instead we compromised, I was allowed to stand and belay in silence and Sparkle got to place every piece of gear for fun. It was looong route. Andy and Rosie caught up with us at the bottom of the route. It was nearly 4pm. The bus from Hathersage was at 6pm so we really only had an hour of climbing left before running down for a pre journey pint. We raced off to go and grab our sacks which we’d conveniently left all the way along at the bottom of Inverted V. When got back to Dovers wall to see Andy s head poking over the top. We consulted the guidebook and after much cajoling I was persuaded to scoot up Cleft Wing Superdirect (VS 4c) by the time we had sorted ourselves out Andy and Rosie were back on the ground. Sparkle quickly organised a route task force, Andy would belay, Rosie would second, I would lead and she would appropriate documentary evidence of the ascent (take photos).

It’s a good route – not difficult if you bridge until the last possible minute. There is a good placement for a large cam halfway along the traverse. Unfortunately, owing to the shape of the route it is easy to get lots of rope drag. This is probably exaggerated by the number of pieces of protection placed in on the traverse, (I saw one chap lace it and was then forced to take a stance on the lip). I opted for on piece in the back extended and one piece in the middle – both large camalots. This worked a treat. The rest of the route presented no significant difficulties.

Second cam going in.

Rosie followed me up. Though I couldn’t see the action I felt the rope tension as she came off after taking out the piece in the middle of the traverse. This was the maximum possible fall and must have been reasonably spectacular. She recovered up an adjacent route and shimmied up the final headwall without difficulty. We sorted the ropes and joined Andy and Sparkle at the base.

As a packing up displacement activity I bouldered on the bottom of some E1 5c thing which seemed interesting. This eventually proved a mistake as I slipped/ jumped off and landed flat on my face. This ignominy gave me no more than scuffed hands and tiny graze on my chin. I estimate that if I’d been only a few centimetres further forward it might have been scuffed hands and a broken jaw. Doh!!!parkle and I retraced out steps to the popular end car park but failed to locate a missing fleece. Mildly irritating as it also had an old knackered MP3 player in. C’est la vie. Andy and Rosie picked us up and we met Ellie. Just time for a couple of cheeky pints in the Scotsman’s Pack and the guys kindly gave us a lift to the train station. Another great day out.

End of the day.

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