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Home arrow 2005 arrow The Old Man of Hoy by the Original Route
The Old Man of Hoy by the Original Route PDF Print E-mail
Written by Richard Apps   
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The Old Man of Hoy by the Original Route
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ImageThe top out is in the middle of the summit plateau, at the central apex of two adjacent summit fields. Care is needed with the paving slabs perched precariously around the edges. A couple of long leashes allowed us to explore the plateau in relative safety, giving plenty of time to disband the disbelief that we’d actually climbed our main objective in perfect weather with seagulls and the occasional fishing boat as the sole spectators. Despite the stunning views over to St Johns Head and the headland opposite it was eventually time to go, rain clouds were just visible on the horizon and the last thing we wanted was to be toiling up the muddy path in a downpour.

Descent from the top is uncomplicated. There is even a wide selection of rotting slings and ironmongery to assist with the two abseils to reach the triangular niche at the top of the second pitch. From here we’d read conflicting reports on the ability of 60m ropes being able to touch the ground. Despite using long ropes we’d cautiously tied a third rope to the top and bottom of the second pitch to guarantee an epic free retreat. There was mild dismay to see the ropes touching the boulders directly below with a couple of meters to spare, thus rendering our carefully tied third rope a superfluous detour. The traditional descent via the gallery was compulsory to retrieve the fixed rope. Rog reached the gallery easily, but as I descended that bottom of my abseil ropes caught on the boulders and the subsequent tension almost prevented me from reaching the ledge. We both put this down to the Old Man having not quite finished with us. Once safely down on the ground this was confirmed by a Herculean effort to pull the ropes.

The evil descent path was much easier in reverse and I only impaled myself on spiteful local flora once or twice.  We regained the safety of mainland cliff tops totally elated, relaxed in the heather and basked in the glory of the day. It had been a superb route in one of the more remote climbing areas of the UK. The sense of achievement was astounding. Throughout the trip we’d both harboured doubts on reaching the summit, but all these fears had been ill founded as all the pieces slotted together at the right moment, culminating on one of the best climbing days we’ve had.

Its a great route – go and climb it before it falls into the sea.

Footnote: I believe the community as a whole would be appreciative if the jokers who left the comedy item on the top of stack would kindly arrange for its removal.

 

 

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Copyright (C) 2007 Alain Georgette / Copyright (C) 2006 Frantisek Hliva. All rights reserved.



 
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