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Written by Richard Apps
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Page 1 of 4  Andrew and visited the Alps together for the first time in July 2003. This is a log of what we got up to. Alps 24/07/2003 - L’Index. After arriving late on Wednesday night we were up at the crack of dawn to have a go at L'Index. The Index lift was running on time and although we were not on the first lift we were still at the upper station early that morning
We stashed the sacks low and to the left of the I'ndex scree shoot. This was a tactically bad move. We spent about an hour messing around with the sacks and sorting out the rack. During this time several parties were able to get onto the route ahead of us. Even as we were leaving the kit cache a few rocks cam hurtling down an natural chute and narrowly avoided taking us with them.
A brief scramble lead us to the bottom of the first pitch where a small queue had formed. Our turn came and I lead off. The first pitch contains the crux, a small corner about two meters but lacking in substantial footholds. There is a peg and I we were climbing in big boots I felt no shame in pulling hard on the peg to ungracefully mantle and thrutch over this obstacle. The remaining climbing on the first pitch is steep and delicate but there are ample holds and protection. At the top I radioed down to Andrew to start climbing, a few minutes later he is at the crux. At this point the radio decides its real calling is actually base jumping and launches from my pocket down the first pitch to glance off Andrew and off into space.
I did not consider this a particularly good omen for a health days climbing.
Andrew took the next pitch and pushed through and up out of sight around the corner. I follow and we set up a steady rhythm of alternating the leads. A couple of hours later we reach the top and Andrew take the final lead down to the Rappel point.
During the course of the day the weather has deterioriated, there are now a few spots of rain, and the cloud base has descended. At rap point we team up with a guide and his clients. He shares knowledge about the safest way down the mountain and in return I offer the use of our double ropes as he is only able to make a 25 rappel on his own.
We reach the col and trudge down the ridge on the left being careful not to miss the the right turn that will take us down to the lift station. By now it is very wet and we leave a piece of tat to ensure a safe descent. The packs are where we left them and all that remains is to go down the lift and head into Chamonix. Tonight we were booked into the Cosmiques hut, and there isn't a great deal of time before the last lift.
The weather is pretty bad now and as we head up in the Midi lift the valley soon disappears in banks of cloud. It is about 5pm. The lift has only a few passengers, and we can only look on with incredulity as a couple of Italians (complete in their harnesses and kit) practice pull ups on the lift railings. We were not impressed. The midi station itself is in middle of an entertaining storm. There is rime ise falling off the bridge netting and its blowing a gale. The valle blanche exit is in whiteout conditions though quiet in the lee of the station. The pull up Italians, disappear into the tunnels, it looks like they may be staying at the station. I head out of the back door to get a better look. It's disgusting out there, I run through the plan.
"Exit the back door with full kit, navigate though a storm in whiteout conditions down a narrow snow arête with a 3000 foot drop on one side, hit the valle blanche and then walk on a bearing over crevasses into the wind without snow goggle."
A few minutes later we are on the last lift down and wondering where to stay tonight. The Richmond has a room left and we make plans around the first lift up in the morning.
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